How to make a portable target stand kit

One problem I ran into with my club was the need to bring my own target stands to the club. Our club rules state that your stand cannot be metal (I take this to include having any metal parts beyond screws). This meant building one out of wood or PVC that would be portable and durable but also easy to repair. Many of the stands that are pre-built online once damaged are difficult or expensive to replace.

There are pros and cons to any stand combination and won't get into great detail other than what I was considering when building.

Wood Stands:

Easy to build and design but most designs seem difficult to take apart, are heavy and not very portable.
They are very durable, most I have seen can take large rounds and hold together.
You have to plan for height adjustment and that just adds to the weight.

PVC:

Easy to put together and store.
Can be made more permanent with some PVC cement
Parts are easy to replace and light.

After lots of reading and YouTube videos, I decided to go with a PVC based stand. My goal was to be able to build a stand that could stand on up easy, be easy to fix and could be broken down into a duffel bag. Here is the parts list I came up with:

10 - 2 foot sections of 1.25" PVC ($3 per section., home depot sells these in precut sections.)
2 - 1.25" PVC Elbow Joints for the top of the frame. ($2.75 per unit)
4 - 1.25" PVC T-shaped joints for the middle and bottom of the frame
4 Everbilt 5/16in x 2-3/4in wire locking pin ($3.00 per locking pin at home depot)
1 Pack of 100 Harileminy Cable Zip Ties Heavy Duty 12 Inch Self-Locking Ultra Strong Plastic Wire Ties ($7 per bag)
1 Piece of thick cardboard at least 24 x 24
As a additional support item, I have some sandbags photography that make a great weight on windy days

I came up with my design because I wanted something I could put together with minimal overhead and take apart for storage in a simple bag. I have a Filson 25 inch medium duffle that was not getting much use, so I wanted to be able to put all the 24inch segments in the bag, the joints, a rubber mallet and the locking pieces. You don't need to use something this fancy or expensive but I happen to have it and it was the perfect size for this project. I also bought a few back up parts if anything broke.

I built mine at home the first time so that I could frame it out and drill holes for the locking pins. I wanted to be able to take apart the stand, but I also wanted to move the stand to various distances without it falling apart. The locking pins hold together the key joints without requiring glue.

Sorry for the fuzzy image. I when ahead and used a vise to hold the stand while drilling the pin hole through the T joint and leg stand.

For hanging the paper targets I just used two pieces of cardboard zip tied to the frame. This let me easily mount the cardboard tightly to the frame without having to damage the structure of the frame. Zip ties are useful as well for hanging clay targets if you want to shoot at those instead of paper. I sometimes shoot a hybrid model, putting T joints in the top corners instead of elbows and hang cardboard in the frame and clay pigeons from the arms on the right and left.

I used my knife to punch a hole above and below the frame, this allows for a nice tight fit.

For stability on windy days I have at least one sand bag to put over the feet of stand and these bags can also be used for positioning the gun when bench shooting in a pinch. I got the idea to use sand bags that photographers use to stabilize their tripods, they are durable and waterproof so they are easy to clean if your stand gets in the mud. I will add more photos on my next trip out to the range of the setup.